John Becker, in Pattern and Loom explains taqueté is technically known as Weft-faced Compound Tabby. Beckers’ historical investigations reveal examples of taqueté dating to China 130 AD, Han Dynasty (202 BC – 220 AD). He describes (p 88) the structure’s significance as having two types of warp threads; a main or pattern warp end and a tabby-like binding warp end.
These two types of warp ends form a repeating group of two, each thread alternating with weft picks. The pattern warp carries the ‘passive’ design, floating through the cloth, while the binding warp ends interlace to form the stabilizing structure of the fabric. In Becker’s wave motif, below, we can see two drawdowns; 1) the binding warp ends are missing resulting in long floats created by the pattern ends; 2) both the pattern ends and binding ends are present in the warp, allowing the fabric greater stability.
It should be noted that taqueté cloth is has a thick, sturdy quality to it, attributed to these type of warp threads.
(The electronic images are by Sara White modeled after Becker, p 87.)
1) This image of the wave motif shows the lift plan. The binding threads have been purposely removed from this image; without the binding ends, the fabric will not hold together. (Electronic image by Sara White modeled after Becker, p 87.)
2) In this image, the drawdown shows both the pattern and binding warp ends.
Turned Taqueté - also known as Jin
Becker finds historical evidence of Jin, technically known as warp-faced compound tabby, dating to the same Han Dynasty period. Characteristics of Jin include polychromatic warp colors and painterly-type designs. Becker sees Jin as being a separate weave structure and not reliant on taqueté as a reference point.
“ [Jin] has a predominance of warp design where two or more colors are present; the warp threads go over three wefts and under one; weft has a binding pick alternating with a pattern pick which divides the warp colors in order; the weft is [often] invisible on the face side and the cloth may be reversible if only two colors are used.” (Pattern and Loom, p 56-57)
Jin fabric is still being made centuries later, under a present-day name: turned taqueté. Some claim that turned taqueté is only a ninety-degree rotation of taqueté, exchanging warp threading and weft treadling. Becker might suggest a more sophisticated description from historical evidence. Jin warp-faced patterns include “…very wide pattern units [which] can extend over the entire width of the cloth… 50 cm... and [can be] found as borders or trimmings on garments.” (Becker, p 56)
If we look at the sources and explorations of our selected expert weavers, we see weave structures of Jin or Turned Taqueté, co-mingling with Shadow Weave, Twill, Echo Weave, parallel threading, digitizing, double weave, multicolor double twill and more.
Becker, John Pattern and Loom, p 55-70 and 85-88, pub. Nordic Institute of Asian Studies 1986, 2nd ed. 2014
van der Hoogt , Madelyn “Ask Madelyn” https://handwovenmagazine.com/ask-madelyn-how- to-sett-turned-taquete/ August 10, 2017