As a service to its members, the Guild offers a weaving ratings program in three levels: Apprentice, Journeyman and Master. Candidates must complete each step in order. Achieving ratings is not a requirement for Guild membership, but is a valuable study guide and offers constructive critical analysis of your work.

RATINGS PROGRAM REQUIREMENTS

Submission fees
Presentation of articles and notebook
Transportation of entries
Definitions
Suggested reference material
Requirements for an Apprentice rating
Requirements for a Journeyman rating
Requirements for a Master Weaver rating
Requirements for a Master Weaver Plus rating

Ratings are a valuable study guide for serious weavers who are interested in developing knowledge and skill. They are not a requirement for membership, but offer the weaver an opportunity to have work undergo critical analysis.

It is presupposed that every article has been woven by the applicant who is submitting material for a rating. Credit is given only if workmanship, function, design, and originality are acceptable to the jury. Only one rating may be passed per year. An applicant must be approved as an Apprentice before being eligible for Journeyman, and as a Journeyman before a Master Weaver's rating.

Work submitted for one rating may not be resubmitted for a subsequent rating. If the candidate's entry is not accepted by the jury, those pieces which were accepted may be resubmitted along with the new pieces (replacing those which were not accepted) the next time. The reason for submitting all required pieces is that not only are all the requirements judged independently, all of the requirements are viewed and assessed as a "body of work".

The Chair for Ratings shall be appointed by the Dean and shall be a Master Weaver. The Chair shall establish the date by which the articles are to be submitted, traditionally the regular March Guild meeting date. If the weaver is unable to deliver the work at the Guild meeting, she/he will be notified of the address to which the entry is to be sent. The Chair will also select a jury and schedule the places and dates for judging. Candidates must inform the Chair by March 1st or earlier when a decision has been made to work for a rating. All questions pertaining to clarification of the requirements or terms should be directed to the Ratings Chair.

The three-paneled jury shall contain at least two Master Weavers. They may be members of the Guild or from outside the Guild. Each judge shall work independently. Judging shall take place once a year and awards shall be made at the Annual Meeting.

SUBMISSION FEES 

  • For Apprentice: $10.00 per application

  • For Journeyman: $25.00 per application

  • For Master: $35.00 per application

  • For Master Plus: No Fee

Table of contents

PRESENTATION OF ARTICLES AND NOTEBOOK

All written work must be placed in plastic sleeves, in a notebook, neatly typed or written in ink, not pencil.

With each page or set of pages per requirement, a sample (woven), a minimum of at least 1 1/2 times the pattern repeat or a minimum of 4" square for all-over patterns, must be included.

Include a complete inventory. Include a separate bibliography. Common or standard sources, noted on individual record sheets, do not have to be relisted in the bibliography.

Use Weavers' Guild of Boston official record sheets, not copies. The record sheets, 25 to a packet, may be obtained from the Ratings Chair or other designated Guild member in charge. (See Bulletins.) Twelve Shaft record sheets are available ($2.50 plus postage) and 24 Shaft sheets are available, double-sided, ($4.50 plus postage).

Use your Guild number on record sheets. Do not write your name on record sheets and DO NOT ATTACH YOUR NAME IN ANY WAY TO YOUR ARTICLES. Signed statements from Apprentice Level candidates are always removed prior to judging.

Write the name of the article (eg., mat, scarf, runner) on the long line at the upper left of the record sheet.

Label the pages of the notebook and the tags on each article to correspond with the number and/or letter of the requirement.

The record sheets for each article must include a 4" x 4" (or larger) woven sample, threading, tie-up, treadling, dentage, samples of yarn used, and a draw-down where required. Include only pertinent information. Pertinent information means all information necessary for another weaver who picks up and reads that record sheet to be able to reproduce that particular textile and/or article. Personal commentary is not pertinent.

All articles must be properly finished and freshly laundered, or finished according to yarn manufacturer's recommended instructions.

All visible stitching must be done by hand. A possible exception might be the stitching on the commercial lining of a bag or when required by a commercial pattern.

There must be no knots in either warp or weft.

Pillows may be left unstuffed. If stuffed, the pillow must be able to be opened. Zippers are not required.

A wall hanging must be ready to hang.

Check over your articles carefully. Repair snagged threads, cut off thread ends, and remove labels with your name.

Copies of a lecture given about ratings, which covers helpful tips and some rather specific information on a number of topics from definitions to presentation, are available from the Ratings Chair at the cost of $3.00 plus postage. Monies collected help fund the Helen Barrett Memorial Award.

Table of contents

TRANSPORTATION OF ENTRIES

All candidates must mail (UPS, USPS, an Air Cargo Service, etc.) or hand deliver their entries to the address designated by the Chair and published in the Bulletin. Packages mailed must include postage for return mailing via UPS only.

Table of contents

DEFINITIONS

An article is a usable, finished item.

Auxiliary equipment includes any device or mechanism added, either temporarily or permanently, to a standard loom. Examples are: a fly shuttle, an automatic advance, a dobby, a computer. Double warp beams, temples, and sectional beams are considered standard. When in doubt call the Ratings Chair.

A finished item means that the woven piece has been hemmed, washed, pressed, and submitted to any other process necessary to make the article complete and ready for use (see Zielinski, Reference Material List)

A draft is a graphic representation of: (a) threading, (b) tie-up, (c) treadling, and (d) resulting fabric or drawdown (not always shown). Drafts should employ standard symbols.

A profile draft is a short form of a threading draft; each square of graph paper is equal to the group of threads representing one repeat or block.

Originality means your interpretation of a weave. For example, in a Summer and Winter project, your choice of material, color, sett, number of repeats per block and function make the work original. Copying exactly the instructions in a book or workshop is not original.

Embroidery weaving is the process of ornamenting a web as it is being woven, to make a design of supplementary threads which pass back and forth where they are needed for the design. A true embroidery weave has a complete background web, with a design placed at the will of the weaver. By this definition, double weave pick-ups are not included.

A sampler is a piece of weaving done on the same threading which shows variations of pattern and/or texture. A sampler is one continuous piece.

A drawdown is a graphic representation of a weave structure, both warp pattern and weft treadling. It is a picture of what the weave will look like - black squares representing action of the warp. Only enough information to show 1 1/2 times the repeat, both warp and weft, should be drawn. If selvages, borders or unusual pattern changes occur, the drawdown should include these sections in the same way as the basic pattern repeat to illustrate that all peculiarities in structure will maintain the correct structure of the fabric.

Table of contents

SUGGESTED REFERENCE MATERIAL

8, 12....20: An Introduction to Multishaft Weaving Wertenberger, Kathryn
A Handbook of Weaves Oelsner, G.H.;
revised by Dale, Samuel S.
A Handweaver's Pattern Book Davison, Marguerite P.
A Handweaver's Source Book Davison, Marguerite P.
Color Perception in Art Birren, Faber
Color and Fiber Lambert, Staepelaere, and Fry
Complete Book of Drafting for Handweavers van der Hoogt, Madelyn
Designing and Drafting for Handweavers Frey, Berta
Designing with Blocks Keasbey, Doramay
Encyclopedia of Hand weaving Zielinski, S.A.
Finishing Touches for the Handweaver West, Virginia
Four Harness Huck Neher, Evelyn
Handwoven Embroidery Weaves Beck, Dorothy and Chase, Hazel
Handwoven Laces Muller, Donna
Lace and Lacey Weaves Snyder, Mary
Learning to Weave Chandler, Deborah
Loom-Controlled Double Weave: From the Notebook of a Double-Weaver O'Connor, Paul R.
Manual of Swedish Handweaving Cyrus-Zetterstrom, Ulla
Monographs Tidball, Harriet
New Guide to Weaving Number 1: How to Wind a Warp & Use a Paddle Osterkamp, Peggy
New Guide to Weaving Number 2: Warping Your Loom & Tying On New Warps Osterkamp, Peggy
New Key to Weaving Black, Mary
Opening a Door to Two HarnessTechniques Francisco, Irene
Patterns for Tapestry Weaving Harvey, Nancy
Point Twill With Color-and Weave Windeknecht, Margaret B.
Principles of Color and Color, a Survey in Words and Pictures Birren, Faber
Principles of Harmony and Contrast of Colours and Their Applications to the Arts Chevreul, M.E.
Rugweaving Techniques: Beyond the Basics Collingwood, Peter
Summer and Winter: A Weave For All Seasons Sullivan, Donna
Tapestry Weaving Harvey, Nancy
Techniques of Rug Weaving Collingwood, Peter
Textile Arts Index 1950 - 1987 Wilson, Sayde, and Jackson, Ruth
Textile Design and Color Watson, William
The Art of Color Itten, Johannes
The Art of Weaving Regensteiner, Else
The Crackle Weave Snyder, Mary
The Elements of Color Itten, Johannes
The Eye and the Brain Gregory, E. L.
The Handloom Weaves Tidball, Harriet
The Interaction of Color Albers, Josef
The Primary Structures of Fabrics Emery, Irene
The Tapestry Workbook Russell, Carol K.
The Techniques of Woven Tapestry Beutlich, Tadek
The Textile Design Book Jornstrop, Karin and Kohlmark, Eva
The Weavers' Guild of Boston -Monograph #2: Weavers' Wisdom edited by Corey, R. and Shannon, M.E.
The Weavers' Guild of Boston -Monograph #3: Processing and Finishing Handwoven Textiles edited by Merrill, Mudge,Koob, Ewert-Taylor, and Wright
The Weavers' Guild of Boston -Monograph #5: Versatile Bronson Burton, D.
The Weavers' Guild of Boston -Monograph #6: Parallel Shadow Weave Voolich, E. and Lang, E.
The Weaver's Book Tidball, Harriet
The Weaving Book Bress, Helene
Theory and Use of Color DeGrandis, Luiguina
Warp and Weft - A Dictionary of Textile Terms Burnham, Dorothy
Weaver's (formerly A Prairie Wool Companion) Golden Fleece Publications
Weaver's Study Course Regensteiner, Else

Table of contents


REQUIREMENTS FOR AN APPRENTICE RATING

Present six well woven articles on six different warps. Minimum size when finished must be 12" by 12". Edges must show on a majority of the articles. There may be no more than one tailored garment. Stress the following points: even beating, even edges, proper finishing, pleasing effect, function, note and record keeping, and accurate threading and treadling.

At the Apprentice level, computers may be used only in the design stage. No auxiliary equipment may be used to produce your weaving and all submitted drawdowns must be done by hand. Weaving done using a fly shuttle, power loom, an auto-advance system, a mechanized shuttle device, an automatic treadling mechanism, or an automatic beater should not be submitted.

A. An article in wool threaded in a 2/2 twill. The twill in the finished article should be at a 45 degree angle.
B. An article in cotton threaded to overshot. The pattern weft may be of wool. Include a drawdown. Tabby picks should not be represented.
C. An article in linen threaded in your own choice.
D. An article in which one of the color harmonies, listed in the following sentence is used. Define briefly, in words, the following color harmonies: monochromatic, analogous, complementary, and triadic. Make a color wheel, using fiber, illustrating the primary, secondary, and intermediary colors (12 colors in all). Embroidery floss is suggested.
E. An article in which structure/ pattern is the primary design element.
F. An article of your own choice.
G. Sign and include a statement that you can warp and dress a loom. Make it easily removable because it is retained by the Ratings Chair before judging.

Table of contents


REQUIREMENTS FOR JOURNEYMAN RATING

The purpose of this rating is to correlate what can be learned from all sources - teachers, books, experiments, etc. All of the following required techniques can be obtained from books or can be taught by teachers. Workshop and in-class pieces may not be submitted. Each article must be of material suitable for its purpose, large enough to show even edges, even beating, pleasing effect, and must be a minimum size of 12" x 12". Any article may be submitted for two classifications if it satisfies both (see I. below for the only exception).

At the Journeyman level, computers may only be used in the design stage. No auxiliary equipment may be used to produce your weaving and all required drawdowns must be done by hand.

Profile drafts are acceptable, provided a key is included for each profile draft.

A. Submit two articles, one of straight twill (can be a 45 degree or a steep or a reclining twill - refer to Oelsner and Dale for steep and reclining and another in overshot design, both woven in the traditional manner. Do a profile draft of the overshot. No drawdowns are required in this section.
B. Estimate the amount of yarn needed for one of the projects which you are submitting and include samples of the yarn used. This estimate should reflect the project in a multiple of six. In other words, if your project is a scarf, then your estimate will be for six scarves on the same warp.
C. Submit one length of an all wool or wool blend (no synthetics) fabric - minimum length, one yard; finished width, 27" recommended, 21" minimum.
D. Submit a finished article of all linen fabric, using at least four shafts.
E. List several embroidery weaves and submit two separately woven articles, each at least 8 1/2" by 11". Do not carry embroidery from border to border. (See definition of embroidery, page 4).
F. List several lace weaves, hand and/or loom controlled, and submit a set of four articles (identical) using a loom controlled lace weave other than Bronson. A drawdown is required of your selected lace weave.
G. Design and submit one article with a loom controlled patterned border all around, using the same pattern on all four sides.
H. Using traditional threading, tie-up, and treadling, submit one article each in any eight of the following weaves:
  1. Warp faced - no weft showing (other than damask)
    See definition in Primary Structures of Fabrics; Emery, I
  2. Weft faced - no warp showing (do not use damask or tapestry)
  3. Point twill or extended point twill
  4. Bronson - lace or spot
  5. Summer and Winter
  6. Crackle
  7. Honeycomb
  8. Overshot
  9. M's and O's
  10. Shadow - see articles by Marian Powell in periodicals and Weavers' Guild of Boston Monograph #6
  11. Damask or False Damask (Twill Damask)
  12. Huck or Huck Lace
  13. Beiderwand - or another Tie-Down weave other than S&W

I. Applied Color Theory - Using a recognized color theorist, (some suggestions might be: Birren, Munsell, Itten, or Albers), in writing, briefly describe the theory. Using that particular theory, apply it to one of the woven requirements in the Journeyman rating. Only this requirement (I) may be combined in one article with either one or two classifications. Identify the classification(s).

Table of contents


REQUIREMENTS FOR MASTER WEAVER RATING

Because The Weavers' Guild of Boston realizes that there exists increased availability and use of auxiliary equipment in the handweaving community, the option of using that type of equipment to weave your fabric is now possible, but only on this level. Using this type of equipment is not a requirement but is acceptable, except for the cloth analysis requirement. Judges realize that the majority of applicants do not have or use auxiliary equipment. Your use or non-use of this type of equipment will in no way affect your standing, or your ability to successfully pass this rating.

No more than half of your pieces submitted may be done with auxiliary equipment. Those pieces chosen to be done using auxiliary equipment must require a minimum of 12 (twelve) shafts. Paperwork should include a printout of all pertinent weaving information (adherence to record sheet requirement is not applicable for these pieces only).

The weaver should state how many treadles would be needed on a standard loom and give that tie-up. The weaver must also give the peg-plan for a standard dobby loom or the pedal-entry/sequence-entry for the computer/dobby loom, depending on the equipment used. A computer printout of the draw-down is required when using a computer/dobby.

A Master Weaver applicant must create independently. In other words, the applicant should not seek assistance from teachers, friends, or colleagues in the form of ideas and/or constructive criticism. All questions and concerns having to do with this rating should be directed to the Ratings Chair who will answer all reasonable questions. All work must be original. Any article may be submitted for two classifications if it satisfies both.

A. TECHNICAL SECTION

Thread two different patterns on six or more shafts. Each threading shall be at least ten inches wide with enough repeats to show the effect of the pattern. Weave at least twelve borders or all over patterns on each sampler showing the possibilities of each threading. Each sampler should be one continuous length. Choose one of the treadlings from each sampler and make a complete article (two samplers, two articles).

B. ORIGINALITY SECTION

Using a variety of yarns from fine to coarse, design and weave articles of eight different textiles, all original, minimum size 15" by 15". At least four of the articles must be woven in a weave of eight or more shafts. Reread second paragraph under the heading REQUIREMENTS FOR MASTER WEAVER RATING.

  1. All cotton
  2. All wool
  3. All singles linen
  4. All plied linen
  5. At least 25% novelty yarn
  6. All synthetic yarn / rayon acceptable
  7. A combination of yarns (weights, fibers, and textures)
  8. Your own choice

C. SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

  1. RUG Using four shafts, make one sampler eight or more inches wide, with six different techniques, each approximately eight inches long. Half the techniques are to be in knotted or looped pile, half in flat weave.

  2. DOUBLE WEAVE Weave three articles, minimum size 15" by 15" - one from each of the following:
    a. Double width fabric, woven in wool, in any color and texture (finished size approximately 40 inches)
    b. An original design woven in pick-up technique such as Finn Weave or Mexican method
    c. Double weave project of your own choice

  3. TAPESTRY Make one Gobelin tapestry in wool on either a linen or a wool warp. The design is to be developed using curves, diagonals, hatchings, and straight lines (the latter producing slits to be properly closed when necessary). Minimum size is 8" by 6". The tapestry must be submitted with its cartoon or design.
D. Analyze a piece of commercial fabric (selected by the Ratings Chair), analysis to be done by hand - not computer generated. Give threading, treadling, tie-up, and drawdown. Weave a sample of at least two repeats in both warp and weft using your own choice of threads.
E. In two typed pages, or less, present the basic theories of two different colorists. The colorists may be from fields totally unrelated to fiber (the most commonly known colorists are: Josef / Anni Albers, Faber Birren, Johannes Itten, Albert M. Munsell, Wilhelm Ostwald, and Johann W. Von Goethe). Other colorists are, for example, Seurat, Van Gogh or Mondrian. Submit a project, in a fiber technique of your choice, illustrating one of the theories. Some techniques you may use for your project: woven structures or textiles (either on or off-loom), spinning, dyeing, felting, knitting, or another of your special fiber interests.
F. As a demonstration of a Master Weaver's willingness and ability to impart knowledge, prepare on paper, and in detail, one of the following teaching tools or techniques: a course outline, a lesson plan, a lecture, a short talk, an article or chapter on some segment of textile history, or any other method or technique you can describe or outline.

Table of contents


REQUIREMENTS FOR MASTER WEAVER PLUS RATING

Due to the increased interest of some of our Master Weavers, this new category is being introduced.

The subject of this Rating is to be an expression of a very special interest / expertise or exploration of some special study in the Fiber Arts. This study and the execution of pieces related to this study are extraordinary in the sense that technique, choice of material, and method of execution are left entirely up to the applicant.

The requirements are:

  1. That a written proposal, outlining the subject, (steps a. & b. of #5) be submitted six months prior to the submission of the work (submission date is the same date as all other ratings submissions, March Guild Meeting, once a year).

  2. That the submitted Body of Work must be represented by a minimum of five / maximum of seven completed articles.

  3. That the Body of Work be truly of the highest quality craftsmanship and exhibit outstanding investigation and workmanship.

  4. That the development of the work for this rating is well-documented and presented as part of the submission.

  5. Thesis form suggested: a. Hypothesis, b. Steps to prove or develop, c. Actual work, d. Conclusions.

Table of contents

Return to WGB Member Benefits | WGB Home Page

Copyright © 1997 Weavers' Guild of Boston. All rights reserved.